Beauty All Around

A few weeks ago I was sitting in the supply room with my head teacher Brittany when she suddenly gasped, squealed, and started bouncing up and down with excitement. The cause of her sudden outburst you might ask? She had discovered that in a couple weekends they would have the premiere of the Chinese version of Sweeney Todd in Shanghai. Now for those of you who may not know this, I happen to dearly love that musical and was equally ecstatic to hear about her discovery. After some minor discussion we decided to get a group together to go down to Shanghai to see the show. We ended up with a decent size group to go into the city although only 4 of us would actually be going to the show. We decided to head out Friday night and come back Sunday night.

Getting into Shanghai, my excitement was tremendous. I love Shanghai! It is one of the coolest cities I’ve been in and I was excited to go on a vacation where I already knew how to get around really well. Plus I was going with some of my favorite people: Kareena, Louis, Zak, Nick, and our dear head teachers. The next best part was that we were staying at a hostel this time which was about a 3 min walk to Nanjing Rd so it was in an excellent location!!

After dropping our stuff off in our room we went out on the town to breath in the delicious atmosphere of Shanghai. A stroll down Nanjing Rd brought us to our favorite little potsticker stand after which we wended our way to the bund where we got to see the beautiful Pudong at night. A special surprise was the low smog in the air on this particular trip which allowed us to really appreciate the gorgeous lights. We took a stroll down the riverbank a ways and then turned back towards the city, exploring little side streets, and finding yummy street food as we made or way back in the general direction of our hostel. As it grew late we decided to head in so we could be ready for the busy day to come.

Waking up, we were greeted with a wonderful surprise: a bright blue sky!! Even better was the absence of Shanghai’s typical thick coating of haze. It was a wonderful start to our day as we headed towards our first destination: the south bund fabric market. It was a place I had heard about from a few sources and that we had all been looking forward to going to. At the fabric market you can go and meander through a building full of different vendor’s stalls selling tailor made clothes. You can get anything from jackets to suits to dresses, and you can find fabrics ranging from wool to cashmere to silk. I had my eye on getting a tailor made silk dress. The boys were all looking to get three piece suits. It was hard to choose from so many different options as we strolled through the three floors of shops. Eventually Kareena and I found a shop we liked and we began the exciting process of haggling with the feisty shop people for a good price. The lady we talked with was super hilarious, and gave us a pretty good deal. I ended up buying a pure silk dress made out of this beautiful deep purple fabric with dragons on it. I gave her my down payment and made arrangements to pick up the dress a few weeks later.

After the boys were done getting their suits we left the market and began wandering in the general direction of Nanjing road. The side alleys of Shanghai are really fun to meander through. Mostly pedestrians are to be found, along with the various stray animals that seem to be everywhere in China. Smoke rises from doorways were people clean and cook and sell their wares from behind dirty windows and small rented stalls. Tarps line the roadway, covered in numerous cheap souvenirs, clothes, shoes and other random assortments, as the owners call out to you in Chinese and broken English. You try to avoid the occasional biker or moped bent on running you down if you don’t get out of the way. People stare at you with expressions ranging from excited, to curious, to suspicious. If you ever come to China, don’t spend all your time going where every tourist goes, make sure and take a tour of what’s really going on, and you’ll be better off for it.

I just want to take a moment and mention one other thing we found on our wanderings. Now I've seen quite a few 7-Eleven's since I've been here but sadly they lack true 7-Eleven authenticity as they all lack Slurpees; the crowning jewel of the 7-Eleven enterprise. However, as we strolled through Shanghai we passed by one such 7-Eleven and as I gazed forlornly through the window I was stopped dead in my tracks by the glorious sight of that beautiful luscious frozen drink before my eyes!! As we ran inside I'm pretty sure the store attendant must have thought we were crazy, especially when Zac got down on his knees in front of the machine.

Before long, we found ourselves at the river once again, as we looked across the water we decided it was about time that we cross it and explore the Pudong up close. We were heading in the direction of the subway when we came across a ferry terminal. Upon discovering that it only cost 5 jiao (the equivalent of about 8 cents) it didn’t take long to change our minds and hop on. Before that moment I had never been on a ferry before (within my memory I might add). It was pretty cool if I do say so myself.

We skedaddled up to the top floor and gazed at the approaching skyline looming before us. Stepping out of the ferry terminal we were greeted by gleaming skyscrapers that would make anyone feel like a spec of sand. We did have one building in particular we were desirous of seeing up close, we lovingly call it the bottle opener, but to the business world it is known as the Shanghai World Financial Center.
It’s currently the tallest building in Shanghai (when it comes to actually used space, if you count its large needle the Pearl Tower is technically taller) and we wanted to get up close and personal.

It was with amazement that I gazed upward at that gleaming glass and metal rising spearing the sky. As we walked around the base we came upon a large sign advertising the SWFC observatory. Upon closer inspection we saw that with our student ID’s we could go up to the top of the building for only 100 yuan. Seeing as it was a beautifully clear day, we all knew we had to do it, so we bought our tickets and hopped in line. First we were taken through a room where they had a scale model of central Shanghai. What was cool about this particular model was that it had a screen behind it that would become light and then dark as the clock on it ran through the hours of the day.

In response the building would light up at night and then turn off during the day as lamps turned on to simulate the sun. Once while we watched the screen lit up with a thunderstorm that filled the room with loud booming as lightening flashed across the screen.

Afterwards we walked through a hallway where one wall would flash boxes across a backdrop of the Bund with tidbits of information about the city (only a few of which were in English). Next we were ushered into a room where we watched a video describing different features about the building and it’s history. From there we got in line to get on an elevator that would speed us upwards to the 95^th floor in just 3 minutes. The elevator was white walls and glass with a screen above your head that showed rippling circles that flashed as you rushed into the sky. At the top we hopped on an escalator that took us to the 97^th floor. There we got to walk through a hall with all glass windows that gave a spectacular view of the city below. The journey wasn’t over however as we waited to get into another elevator that would wisk us up even higher to the 104^th floor. As we chilled in line we noticed a sign saying that if we so desired we could skip the line and take a set of 199 stairs up to the next viewing area. After a moment’s debate we headed for the stairwell. You may call us crazy but I’m actually really happy we took those stairs. It really wasn’t all that difficult and it was pretty entertaining to run up a good portion of them while laughing along with my friends. One interesting thing was that on the front of each step was a number that counted down from 199 as you headed up each flight. I never quite decided whether or not that made the journey easier for me

The view as we stepped out onto that floor was the most glorious thing I have ever beheld.
Miles of Shanghai lay at my feet as I was able to gaze all around me through the glass windows and even below me through the slightly eerie glass floor.
We spent a good while up at the top just taking it all in. As I gazed out over the concrete jungle of the Pudong, I could see the Bund in the distance, rows and rows of China’s endless apartment buildings, a couple of the river’s famous bridges, and a number of other things that I couldn’t even begin to describe to you. A memory comes to mind as I think back on that moment. I once stood at the top of a mountain at a place called Naomi’s peak in the Beaver Mountains near my home in Logan. It was the most beautiful view to gaze across that sea of wilderness. Standing at the top of that skyscraper I was able to gaze upon what could be seen as the technological and modernized version of that view. It reminds me of the endless capacity for human innovation that makes us the wondrous and terrible species that we are.

Leaving the bottle opener it was time for Kareena and I to be off. We needed to head back to the hostel to meet up with Brittney and Micaela to go see Sweeney Todd. As we got to our room however, we did not see them or any tickets left out for us. We went down to the front desk to see if any messages had been left and when we discovered that none had we grew slightly worried about the situation. Luckily, I had their cell number written down so I used the hostels phone to call them. Micaela informed me that when they had gone to the theatre earlier that day to get the tickets no one seemed to know what they were talking about and they didn’t see any signs for the show so they thought it must have been cancelled. It seemed odd to me that that would be the case so I hopped on the computer and looked up the address of the theatre. It turned out to be very close by so Kareena and I scurried over there to see for ourselves. I’m not sure where the head teachers had gone too before but they must not have been to the right theatre because the one I went to had posters for the show, a listing on the board and when I asked the man at the desk he knew exactly what I was talking about. Unfortunately by the time we had gotten there they only had the most expensive seats left so we couldn’t afford to see the show. It would be an understatement to say I was depressed by the whole situation.

Alas we would not be stopped so we headed out and began to venture through town looking for some dinner. Shortly after filling ourselves with delicious street food, potstickers, and ice cream we headed up to the hostel to look for Louis. The other guys were leaving that night, but Louis was staying til the next day with us so we wanted to make sure he didn’t get left alone. We found him there and drug him back out onto the street with us. Earlier during our venturing Kareena and I had gone back with some of the sketchy knock-off shop people and Louise wanted us to take him to one. Now pretty much everywhere you go in Shanghai there is one thing you will certainly see. That is random men and women coming up to you holding cards with pictures of purses and watches asking you to go with them to see their secret shops where they try to sell you fake designer brands.

On my first trip to Shanghai I never followed any of them but some of the other people did. This time I was determined to get my hands on a knock-off purse. The three of us went in search of one of the shop-keepers and soon enough one found us. We followed them down a side street off of Nanjing road and into what looked like a legitimate shop. However, they took us back behind a door and up a flight of stairs to another room where the walls were lines with everything from Prada to Coach to Gucci. Those of you who know about my slight addiction to purses will know just how glorious of a thing that was to see. We looked around but we didn’t want to buy anything just yet so we mostly waited while Louise tried to haggle with a guy over a fake IPod. They wanted far too much however, so Louise didn’t buy it and we left the shop and headed back out onto the street where we ran into a few of the coolest people I have ever met. Now Louis is Mexican and I don’t mean for that to sound racist haha it just that being so he has very dark skin which stands out a lot over here. So as we left the shop these two Indian (I’m talking from India not Native American haha) guys stopped us. One of them knew some Spanish and proceeded to talk excitedly to Louis who was happy to get to oblige. While they chatted I was approached by a Chinese guy who was with them named KG. Now KG is probably the Chinese guy I’ve met who spoke the best English. Not only because his vocabulary and grammar were great but because he had an amazing grasp of humor, sarcasm, and wit that you just don’t see in the English speakers here.

We chatted for a good little while and he showed me some things ha had bought around the city, including a little flashy toy that you can shoot into the air that he gave to me. After a little while we joined with the others and continued talking. Along with the two men and KG was a Chinese woman named Ling Ling. The story of how they all ended up together is one I will never forget and one I will tell you shortly. First however I will tell you this; after we had been talking for a good while one of the men invited all of us to have dinner at a fancy restaurant above Nanjing Rd. We were happy to consent and followed the group to one of the nicest places I have set foot into here. It was already after 11 and so there were not many people. As we exited the elevator we were greeted by a hostess who led us to a wide circular booth. Looking at the menu I had to swallow a lot of guilt when I saw the prices. That place was expensive even by American standards. I had never been to anything like it before. As it turns out however one of the men (we called him Malik although that wasn’t his real name) was actually a wealthy businessman who paid for all of it. None of us were hungry so we decided not to order food but Malik and Ling Ling ordered a bunch of food for everyone to share. They wanted to buy us drinks but we kindly refused. When Ling Ling heard that she said “but it is our first time here meeting together! You must drink for good luck!” We explained that we didn’t drink but I’ve found that usually most of the Chinese we meet take that as meaning “we don’t want a drink right now”. Despite the communication barriers we talked Ling Ling into only ordering us some herbal tea, which was quite yummy I might add.

(Ling Ling)

When the food came we were treated with delicious fruit, fried rice, and vegetables. Then they began telling us about how they had all ended up on that street earlier that night. As it turns out Malik and Anil (the other Indian man) were here in China doing a business seminar. They had met at one of the conferences and had decided to go out that night. While exploring the city they had been approached by KG who saw them having trouble trying to talk with a lady at a food stall. KG helped them out and then volunteered to show them around the city. He had been giving them a tour when… well I better use Malik’s words here since only they could do it justice:

“We were standing in the street when the crowd parted and I saw the most beautiful smile beaming at me from afar. Then I saw that it belonged to the most beautiful woman who was walking towards me. I couldn't help but introduce myself.”

OK so I admit that’s obviously paraphrased and it still doesn't do it justice but it’s the best I got. So they met Ling Ling who joined them in journeying around Shanghai. A while later they had been exploring the shop we were in and had left it shortly before us and that’s when we ran into them. A little hint of serendipity brought us all together and I will be forever grateful for that.

(Malik and Anil)

(Luis and Anil)

Now obviously Malik thought Ling Ling was beautiful and I could tell why he was interested. She had a bright bubbly flirty personality, she was obviously incredibly smart, and she was like a ray of sun. So as Malik jokingly flirted with her she flirted back in her own pretendingly coy manner. She would say things in Chinese or whisper and then I would jokingly translate them into English and say things like “oh she wants you to put your arm around her” or “yes of course you should kiss her”. I was totally playing on his side and he and I became conspirators. Funny enough Ling Ling loved it and by the end of the night her and I were the best of friends. I think being around them really brought out some of the best in me. I found myself making witty comments and adding melodic phrases to the scenes they described as they joked and told stories. More than once one of them commented on how they thought I had a gift with words.

Another interesting twist I came across that night was KG. The entire night he was mercilessly flirting with me, which I did not expect. He was sitting next to me at the table and was always nudging me and complimenting me, saying cheesy pick up lines and winking and smiling and basically just flirting up a storm. It was actually kind of fun, although I tried not to return his flirting too much since I as not interested in the slightest for numerous reasons not the least of which being the fact that he smoked and drank. He was a hilarious guy though and fun to be around. As the clock ticked towards 1 am Kareena decided she wanted to leave. Louis and I would have been happy to stay longer, but we knew we had to go with her so we said our goodbyes to them all. Ling Ling pouted at me when I told her I was leaving and begged me to stay. She gave me a huge hug and told me that we had to be best friends now and I gave her my QQ and she asked to take a picture with me.

As Louis and Kareena said their good-byes Anil pulled me aside for a brief moment. What came next took me completely off guard. He told me that he thought I was a brilliant person and gifted with words. He said I was obviously very charismatic and that people must surely like me. Most surprisingly he told me that he wanted me to go out and use my gifts, to write and to make a difference. He said that he hoped to see my name become famous and that he knew I had great potential. It was the most touching thing anyone has ever said to me. He wrote down his email for me and asked me to keep in touch. As I left my heart was full, and I knew that I had been a part of one of those magical moments when God blesses you by leading you to those people that you never knew you were looking for.

Sleep settled sweetly over me as I climbed into my bed that night and the morning came far too quickly. We woke up and packed our things before heading out into the city once again. We stopped down in the lobby to check out and ordered some delicious breakfast from the hostel café. The head teachers headed out on an early train, but Kareena Louis and I decided to spend the rest of the day there before heading back to good old Changzhou. Our first order of business brought us to the French concession where we spent the afternoon following the sketchy back alley shop people from store to store haggling over purses and watches. Kareena got her hands on a coach bag that they started at around 700 yuan for but she haggled them down to 120 I believe. I got myself a leather Prada bag for 110 that they originally asked 600 for. Yeah those guys will try to eat you alive. We only got the prices we did because we threatened to walk out numerous times and we knew from talking to others how much we should actually be paying. More or less it was a satisfying afternoon.

We grabbed a bight to eat at a local street food stand and decided to catch a subway across the river out past the Pudong to the other side of Shanghai. I had read about a shopping area there that was supposed to be pretty famous. Getting off the subway I realized that the shopping area was underground pretty much right out the exit gates. It consisted of crammed together rented stall jammed pack with just about anything you could imagine wanting to buy. Clothes, home decorations, books, CD’s, software; and that’s just scratching the surface. It was a good thing I had limited the funds I brought with me because I was almost out. I had just enough to snag an awesome black trench coat. After we finished up our shopping we headed out of the subway to see what was aboveground. What we found surprised us. We exited into a courtyard where there was a large statue and a fountain and people flying kites next to what we later found out was the Science and Technology Museum.

We followed some stairs out of the courtyard and walked along a path until we came to the most glorious sight; a park with real grass that we were actually allowed to step on!

I don’t think I had fully comprehended just how much I missed grass until that moment. So we all found a comfy patch and curled up on the grass for the most wonderful afternoon nap of my life.

We woke up a little while later, and still had some time before we had to head to the train station so we walked out where a bunch of people were flying kites and sat breathing in the sight.

It was one of those moments that reminded me that even a world away in one of the most alien places I’ve ever been; some things are still the same. A warm fall breeze will bring families outside and kites into the air in China just as much as it will in America.
Beauty lies all around us. In the wonder of a skyscraper piercing the clouds, in a newly made friend, in a mother showing her son how to fly a kite, in an unsuspected Slurpee encounter. From my little hometown in Utah to my new found home here in Changzhou, no matter where you are, you can see it, you can feel it, and it can change you.