Quote Of The Day

“Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.” – Miriam Beard
Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts

Saturday, March 17, 2012

In The Mountains

I have just seen one of the most beautiful places I have ever been blessed enough to set foot on. Today has been such an exhausting day. We started bright and early, meeting up at 8am to take a four hour bus ride out to the gorgeous city of Nikko.

As we pulled into the city we stopped for a quick lunch of Udon (large Japanese noodles, usually served in bowls of soup) before taking a short walk to the Nikko Shinto shrine. Shinto is the traditional religion of Japan. It’s beliefs are based on the idea that there are various gods representing elements such as wind, water, the forest, the river, the mountain and so on. They build shrines to each God in order to elicit blessing from them and stave off curses. They also believe that when they die they become Gods as well, and so they build family shrines in order to worship the spirits of their ancestors.

At the front of the shrine you first use a spring of water and a ladle to wash your hands and rinse out your mouth, so you can enter the shrine “clean”. From there you can wander in and around the different buildings and statues. In front of each one you can make wishes to the Gods by bowing twice clapping twice then bowing once while making your wish and throwing a coin into the shrine.

It was a beautiful shrine set into the back drop of a forest mountain. Even the city had the back woods old-town feel. The buildings were small and compact, blending in with the atmosphere of the place. Huge trees shaded the many walkways, and snow was still piled off to the sides of the paths. At one point we came across a box that you could put 100 yen into and pull out a fortune. We all decided to do it out of curiosity and had our friends translate the characters for us. Mine was a “so-so” good luck one as they described it. Dr. Namora went into a little more detail for me saying that it said, I should be careful not to spend too much money, that if I make a wish it had an 80% chance of coming true, and that my love life was looking promising. It was entertaining if nothing else to read the little fortune which I immediately tucked into my wallet for safekeeping.

Up a few hundred stairs we found the shrine to a famous general who was buried there. As we walked around the monument we came to the hollow trunk of a 600 year old tree. The students translated the sign in front of it saying that it was said to be good luck if you prayed to the tre and then shouted your wish into its trunk. Cythia, Shannon, and I decided to go for it, and elicited smiles and a few laughs from our Japanese friends, as we wished for help in our schooling and health to our families.

After we finished exploring the shrine Dr. Namora gave us a choice. We could head back to the school now, or we could drive another hour up a winding mountain road to where we could see a huge waterfall. We chose the waterfall :D

As it turned out we had to buy tickets to ride an elevator to the base of the waterfall, since there was no path to walk down, and the mountain was windy and snow-covered anyways. So a quick ride 90m down we walked out onto a platform and looked up in awe at the crashing waterfall in front of us. It has been a long time since I have seen a waterfall like that. It was so beautiful. As the freezing cold water crashed to the rocks below scattering puffs of snow into the air, Icicles clung to the mountain face, and the cold blue river flowed away below. It was simply spectacular. I could have stood there for hours admiring the sheer power of mother nature, but alas the biting fierce wind drove us to make our way back up the mountain and onto our bus, tucked in and warm for the long ride back home.

We made it into Tsukuba around 8ish and stopped at what appeared to be a Japanese steakhouse. It was a little on the more pricey side, but as I dug into my sizzling plate of chicken, sausage, and beef it was the perfectly scrumptious way to end a beautiful day.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Out On My Own

There is a mountain nearby the city of Tsukuba; tall and proud it’s two peaks stand guard over the people. Everyone we had talked to at Tsukuba seemed so proud of their dear mountain so I and a few others thought it would be a good idea to go and see it for ourselves. We had another free morning and wanted to use it to go up to Mt Tsukuba. However, when I knocked on Cynthia’s door at 7am to check that the trip was still a go, she and Shannon said that according to what they had looked up we would not have enough time to get up there. I went back and perused the internet again and after confirming the bus schedules four times over I went back and told them that I believed we would have enough time and that I was going to go. They opted out, not wanting to be late for our trip in the afternoon with the other students. So on my own and scurried down and caught the bus down to the transfer station and then switched to the 700 yen bus that would take me out to the mountain.

It was a 40 min ride through rural Tsukuba. It was also my first time getting to really see a lot of the traditional architecture in the houses. I’ve decided that I love the look of the Japanese homes, not just the building itself either but the whole package. The building and all the beautiful landscaping all wrapped up in one fascinating and gorgeous package. Me want….. :P

The bus dropped me off at the base of the mountain, from the visitor center I walked up a small road lined with old school shops and vendors until I reached the Mt Tsukuba shrine. As I made my way up through the paths I got to admire the beautiful statues and waterfalls and other elements making up this peaceful and sacred place. Past the shrine I caught the first cable car of the day up to where the mountains two peaks split off (unfortunately I didn’t have the time to climb all the way up). From there I chose the head left up the taller peak (since I only had time to climb one). Here on top of the mountain, the ground was still covered with snow and ice. I had to be very careful as I picked my way across the slippery rocks. As I reached the peak, I saw another shrine perched at the top. Making my way up the last little bit I looked out over the horizon. The day was fairly clear and I could see for miles all around the beautiful valley, off in the distance I caught a small glimpse of Mt Fuji.

As I got back to the cable car station I was suddenly struck with nervousness. The next tram down didn’t leave until 10 and I had to catch my bus at 10:30. The ride took about 8 minutes and then I’d have to run off the mountain through the shrine, find some place to break a stupid 10,000 bill so I could pay for the bus and then all the way back to the bus stop. If I didn’t make this bus there wouldn’t be another until after 12 which meant I would be very late to meet up with everyone else for our trip. As the tram slowly rolled into the station I paced back and forth wringing my hands and praying for a miracle. The ride down the mountain was the longest 8 minutes of my life. Then I was sprinting down through the shrine taking two steps at a time most places. As I ran by a vendor I stopped and bought the first not too expensive thing I found, turned out to be a stick (whose purpose I am still baffled about) that cast me 4oo yen or about 5 bucks. A friendly Japanese guy helped point me in the right direction from there as I sprinted down the side street and popped out by the visitor center and the bus stop at 10:25. As I checked the bus schedule my heart sunk.

First I noticed that the sign said 10:40 and not 10:30, but then from what very little I could understand I got the impression that the 10:40 was only running during certain time of the year, and this was not one of them. Without being able to read the characters I couldn’t be sure so I paced around the stop for the next 15 minutes trying to figure out what I would do if the bus didn’t come. It came down to two options: be late for the meeting, or call a taxi. In the end I decided that if it came down to it I would call a taxi, despite the fact that it would cost and arm and a leg and my first born child to make the 40 min trip back to the bus transfer station.

As 10:40 ticked by I was about to get up to find a phone to attempt to call a taxi when the bus came trundling around the corner. I literally leapt for joy, and sent a quick thank you heavenward and then boarded the bus back home. I got back to the university about 20 minutes before we were supposed to meet, so I sat back and relaxed taking a deep breath, proud of my uncanny ability to get myself anywhere despite not knowing the language in a strange city.

Cynthia and Shannon smiled as they saw me, happy to see that I had made it back safe and on time. Our first stop for the day? The JA co-op headquarters. There we were given a brief explanation on how a co-op works and how they run it here in Japan. A quick breakdown: a farm consists of a central company that farmers can choose to join by paying a yearly fee. In exchange they get to sell their products through co-op stores, use the co-ops various assistance programs, and use the co-ops name.

After visiting the Tsukuba branch office we went to visit one of the co-op stores, where farmers can sell their crops and produce. A lot of the food was cheaper and we stocked up on some veggies that we were going to cook for dinner. I also got some oranges, some of the first fruit I had eaten on the whole trip, and some yummy lemon ice cream.

After the store was my favorite part, visiting one of the actual co-op farms. The man (who spoke no English) took us on a tour around his farm as Namora- Sensei translated for us. It was cool meandering through stores of crops, inspecting the farming equipment and learning a little about the farming techniques.

I think most of us agreed that the best part of the farm tour was when we entered the Shitake mushroom greenhouse. Rows and rows of chopped-off tree trunks leaned against wooden poles filling the warm room with the musky scent of wood. Growing from each log were 10-15 mushrooms of various sizes. The farmer explained how they drill holes into teach piece of wood and then insert spores into each hole that would slowly grow the delicious mushrooms. It takes 1 year to mature each log of mushrooms. It was pretty awesome, and worked well for this small-scale farmer although the method would likely be impractical for a farm any larger than the one we visited.

As we got back to the school I grabbed a bike and ran to the grocery store with a few of the others to pick up some last minute items for dinner. It was the first time I’d ridden a bike since before I left for China; boy have I missed it ::D When we got back we began cooking the veggies and meat to make a delicious stir-fry and Crista cooked up some scallops she had bought at the fish market the other day. We brought it all down to the community center where we met up with the Japanese students for a good old home-cooked meal.

After our bellies were full we headed over to Big Echo to party the night away. As it turns out Karaoke is as big here as it was in China (no surprise of course;D). So the students took us out for an exciting evening of rocking the night away in a rented karaoke room just like the KTV ones in China. Basically you rent a room with your group where you can stay as late as you want until it closes at 6am and sing your heart away. We all stayed until about 1 and then ditched out for the 40 min trek back up to campus, the Japanese boys however, rocked it all night long, staying until the wee hours of the morning.

Monday, March 12, 2012

A Relaxing Day

You would think that on the first day where we didn’t have to meet up until noon I would take a night to recuperate, catch up on some sleep, and restore myself from the ever-evil chains of jet lag……. But I’m in JAPAN silly! I can’t waste time doing silly things like sleeping :P So instead I was up with the sun at 6 am. Wide eyed and bushy tailed I worked for a short while on my blog before getting ready. Cynthia knocked on my door around 8 and we headed out to walk down to the Tsukuba Center. On the way we got to take in the beauty of our dear campus, this time under the rays of the sun rather than the dreary gray clouds that were covering the sky our first few days here. `

Our first stop in the mall was the infamous Mister Donut. I was one of the only one who hadn’t tried it yet, and I had heard that it was the donut shop of legends. I bought a few I thought looked good and we sat down to enjoy. They were indeed rather delicious, although imagine my surprise when I bit into one to find….. Curry! I had bought a curry donut! However, once I got over my initial shock, I found that it was actually really good! :D

We spent the next little while wandering around the mall and the surrounding streets just scouting out the city. We also picked up a few groceries and then headed back towards the school. There we met up with the rest of the group and a few of our dear Japanese friends who led us to the Agricultural and Forestry Research Station on campus.

As we arrived we were led into an office building where we were introduced to the Dean. He was a nice Japanese man who seemed very excited to have us there. He talked about the school and the study program they were introducing for foreign students. He also asked us about ourselves and our majors. That’s when I made the discovery that Brendan and Trevor (the Anderson brothers) were not Agriculture majors like the rest of us. I was a little intrigued as to why they were in the group since this was an AG focused trip, but hey trip to Japan right?

When the meeting was over we took a group photo with the dean and then headed out onto the farm to learn a little about how they ran things in their little operation. First stop was the greenhouses. Here we got to see an array of beautiful flowers, some familiar and some not. One thing I found neat was how they utilized their scarce resources. Water and space are two expensive resources that they must deal with. To combat this problem they have two layers of plants on each table. As they water the top plants water escaped through the bottom of the top rack and waters the bottom.

After the greenhouses we got a small peek at the rice paddy and the orchard. It wasn’t planting season yet so the field was empty and dry, but still cool to see, as Namora-Sensei explained to us a little of the practices they used. When we came to the silage area, Dr. Namora explained that the two silos they had on the farm were to expensive to run and upkeep so they used other methods. One of them consisted of piling the silage up on the ground, covering it with a tarp and then laying a few tons of dirt on top. that was kept for a couple years and then dug back up. We got to watch as the tractor made its way down one row of silage slowly revealing the blue tarp underneath as it removed layers of soil.

Beyond the field we found the milking barn, where we were introduced to the small herd of 10 that were currently lactating. The milking area itself was rather small, but organized. In fact, I think I could only really describe it as….cute haha. It seems as with all things in Japan they just like to do it smaller haha.

After saying goodbye to our new cow friends we were released for the day to run amuk…..I mean explore….. I took a quick break in my dorm to rejuvenate and then headed out with Cythia, Sam, Shannon, and Crista to wander around campus. We eventually happened upon the campus botanical garden. As we wandered about its winding paths we found brides and pavilions beside beautiful ponds. Once again we were thwarted by the late blooming season, and many of the trees were still leafless. However we did come upon a fun little bamboo forest and some deciduous trees, whose green leaves and needles made me a little nostalgic for home.

It was soon time to finish our night by meeting up with the Japanese students again to go out for dinner. We had been told that we would be going to a ramen house that evening but as Namora dropped us off he told us that it actually appeared to be…. Can you guess?.... haha a CHINESE restaurant! I was so excited! As I perused the menu I was overjoyed to see an array of familiar dishes from the good old days back in Changzhou. I had the hardest time deciding what to get and eventually settled on a good old bowl of noodles. It wasn’t the same as our beloved noodle shop but it was still pretty awesome, and put a warm glow in my heart even as it warmed up my belly.

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Food Coma

I have never eaten so much in my life!! I am stuffed full and happy as can be. Today we were lucky enough to be shown around a couple of the traditional sights around Ibaraki prefecture. Our first stop? Kairakuen, one of the top three famuos gardens in Japan and a wonderful place to see the plum blossoms. A little fact for you: the plum blossom blooms first in the season and is then followed by the iconic cherry blossom. Dr. Namura informed us that sadly the plum blossoms were blooming a little late this year so there would not be very many at the park yet, but it would still be beautiful. (I decided this just means I HAVE to come again sometime too see the trees in full bloom ;D)

A bus picked us us from the school bright and early and we headed out about an hours drive to the city of Mito. There we arrived at Kairakuen garden. As we walked along the path to the garden's entrance it wasn't long before we began to see stalls lining the walkway, each sporting various delicious looking foods. Dr Namura had had us stop by a supermarket prior to arriving at the park so we could pick up some lunch to eat while we were there but had I known this feast would await me I wouldn't have bought anything. However despite the fact I already had food in my bag there was just no passing up all of the amazing aromas drifting towards us.

My first conquest? A pancake of sorts filled with a warm custard. As the cook handed it to me and the warm smell filled the air, I knew I had made the right choice. I bit into it as we made our way towards the park entrance and I was amazed by how absolutely delicious it was. As my taste and smell were being gratified by the treat, my sight was suddenly filled with joy as we entered a path winding between blossoming plum trees. We were met at the front of the park by our tour guide who began leading us along a path that lead past a field where families were picnicking and listening to a group of elderly women who were playing some string instruments. We stopped for a moment to listen. It was beautiful.

As we continued on we saw a crowd of people surrounding some tables and being served tea by a group of kimono clad men and women kneeling in the middle. When we asked Maggie what was going on she explained that one of the kneeling men was playing a character from a famous Japanese TV show and they were holding a traditional tea ceremony that the guests to the park could participate in (if they were willing to wait in an hour or more long line). If I had not been obligated to follow along behind a group I would have joined in despite the wait, but alas it was not to be.

Moving forward, our guide led us along paths winding through the plum orchard. The bright pink and white flowers were beautiful. I only wish I could be here when they were in full bloom, as many of the trees we got to see were still only budding.Beyond the plum trees the scenery suddenly changed as we entered a new area of the park. Here we found ourselves surrounded by a grove of tall lanky trees packed in tightly with a canopy of green foliage spreading out at the top. The bamboo forest brought back memories of the pandas I got to see at the Shanghai zoo. The path through the trees led to a natural spring that they had rerouted up through a giant marble block. It was one of three such fountains found in the park.

We had made a full circle around the park and now we found ourselves back at the picnic area, the women still playing their instruments off to the side. We sat in the grass to eat our lunch; I had tempura shrimp and vegetables. Some of the various fried yummies you can get at any grocery store, and most convenience stores. We were released for some free time after that and I set off with Cynthia in search of the plum ice cream we had seen on sale when we came into the park. It was easy to find its large posters sporting purple ice cream cones and a couple hundred yen later I was holding the treat in my hand; eagerly savoring its tangy sweet flavor.

We decided to explore up and down the stalls to see what the different merchants were selling. I was pretty full by this time, but it wasn’t long before I knew that I was about to be a whole lot more full. I was roped in quickly as I rounded a corner and came face to face with a stand selling fried squid. Although they were cooking it differently then my dear friends at my Changzhou night market, I knew I had to have it. Cynthia had also found a stall selling large Takoyaki deliciousness. We purchased the two and decided to share then between us.

Food in hand we then decided to go check out what was going on around a large crowd that had gathered down one of the paths. As we approached we heard the loud high pitched voice of a Japanese woman coming from the center of the circle. We found a couple seats on a bench near the front and sat to observe as she showed off her pet monkey to the crowd. With drum in hand she called out commands to the small creature as she hit out a beat. She had him get up on some stilts and walk around jumping over hurdles and climbing sets of wooden stairs. All-in-all he was very well trained, but the animal lover inside me couldn’t help but cringe. I really couldn’t decide whether or not I should be entertained or upset by the display of human dominance over the tiny creature. It’s a fine line to walk I think. After all no one bats an eye when someone trains their dogs to ride skateboards, hop on two feet, or do back flips, but everyone freaks out when you try to do it with a monkey. Perhaps its because the dogs seem happy to do it, whereas that little monkey seemed rather ticked off at his predicament.

We quickly dissected the squid as we made our way back to the bus with our group, and the Takoyaki followed soon after as we drove to our next stop on the other side of Ibaraki prefecture. Beside the ocean along one of the sections of the coast affected by the tsunami last spring we came to one of Ibaraki prefectures famous fresh fish markets. My ears rang with the din of sellers and buyers haggling over fish as I breathed in the salty aroma permeating the air. Rows and rows of every fish imaginable lined the stalls, drying squid and fish hung from poles or were attached to rotating racks. Vendors served up fried shrimp, smoke oysters, and crab leg soup. We wandered up and down the rows admiring the fresh meat, and enjoying the free samples offered to us. I bought a hot cocoa out of a vending machine (one of the million that you can find everywhere offering any number of things to buy) and sipped it down as I munch on a Jumbo shrimp skewer, and before departing I bought myself a fish cake to enjoy later. By this time I was so full of yumminess I thought I would burst, instead I lay my head down and enjoyed a nice nap as we drove an hour and a half back to the school.

We had about an hour break before the students would meet us to take us out on the town for dinner. I stumbled up to my room and took a quick nap still a little dragged down by jet lag and then arrived refreshed to the community center. Our fare for the evening? A Korean BBQ :D For those of you who don’t know what that entails let me break it down for you ;) We arrived at the restaurant and were led back to a set of booths where we removed our shoes and climbed up onto a platform where the table was. I ordered a plate with slices of raw pork and beef that arrived at my table alongside a bowl of salad and some pickled sprouts and peppers. In the middle of our table was a small grill where we got to cook our own meat. It was SO MUCH FUN. It brought back fond memories of hot pot as I used the provided tongs to cook my meat to perfection. The thin slices were tender and delicious and probably one of the best things I’ve ever tasted. Honestly before dinner I hadn’t been sure I had room for more food, but boy did I prove myself wrong; THERE IS ALWAYS ROOM FOR MORE! :D :D

Back at the dorms I crawled into bed stuffed to the brim. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten so much GOOD food in such a small amount of time. I never knew what a true food coma was until that day, and as I slipped contentedly into slumber I knew for a certainty that this whole trip was worth it for all the amazing things I get to eat ;D

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Tsukuba!

As I sit here munching my banana in the wee hours of the morning, I can't help but smile as I glance out my window at the beautiful Tsukuba University campus below me. I'm looking forward to another beautiful day with these wonderful people and I can't help but chuckle as I think back on yesterday.

My first night here in Japan we were welcomed most graciously into the country by a 3.5 magnitude earthquake around 3 am. Some of you who know my propensity for sleeping like the dead won't be surprised that I had no idea that it had happened until I awoke the next morning and met up with everyone else. Figures I would completely sleep through it haha.

After we'd all met up in our dorm community center we got to meet our three tour guides for the day: Yukari, Maggie, and Dezu. Yukari and Maggie were very confident and their English was excellent, I later found out that it was due in great part to the fact that both of them had come on an exchange to Utah State last summer for a month. Dezu was a little more shy and after introducing himself seemed content to just let the girls take charge.

We headed out to walk about halfway across campus to a conference center where we would meet up with he two professors over our little band. The first thing I noticed as we trudged down the road under the cloudy grey sky and drizzling mist was how absolutely gorgeous this campus is. The pedestrian walk that cuts down the middle is lined with beautiful trees and ponds and fountains. Small parks dot the campus, and everything is just so GREEN. I LOVE IT.

As we walked I got to chatting with Yukari. She is by far the cutest girl I have ever met and we became fast friends. She told me about her trip to Logan and you'll never guess what two foods she misses the most: tacos and chocolate milk! Definitely worthy of missing in my opinion! When I asked her what things had shocked her the most about the culture, she said that one of the biggest things was how we would speak with each other and with the professor during class. She thought it was so strange how the teachers would encourage us to ask questions and converse with them. She also said she was just as thrown off by how we drive on the right side of the road as we were by how they drive on the left.

A little ways down campus I noticed that most of the buildings had tall nets draped down the sides. When I inquired as to their purpose she explained that they were put up after the earthquake last spring so they could grown vines up them to act as a shade over the building because they could not use the air conditioning because of the electricity shortage. Many buildings were also still under construction, having damage from the quake being fixed.

At the conference center we met with our two professors who gave us a rundown on the school and it's history. Tsukuba University was founded only about 30 years ago and is now one of the largest campuses in Japan, and has one of the largest populations of international students. As they talked about the different initiatives the school was putting into place to attract more and more foreign students I couldn't help but feel myself being tempted into finding a way to come here for a longer stay. After we got a run-down on the weeks activities and all the basic safety and school policy-ness, we headed out to go visit downtown Tsukuba and grab some lunch with our three new friends.

Hopping on the bus, I had to once again stop myself from momentary shock as I shelled out 190 yen for the ride. I think it's going to take me awhile to stop feeling a twinge every time I look at the prices of things here. The ride was short and quick and as we hopped out I got to catch a glimpse of the entrance to the rail line that would take us into Tokyo, which by the way costs 2000 yen in case you were wondering haha.
Our first stop was Q't (pronounced 'cute') which is fun little shopping center in the middle of town. We headed inside and stopped at the mall food court. All it took was one whiff of the place and I was in heaven, everything smelled so good! I asked Yukari what she suggested and she gave me two of her favorites: Udon and Takoyaki. I figures since I'd had udon before (those delicious thick Japanese noodles are one of my favorite foods) I would go for trying Takoyaki which I had never heard of before. As it turns out, it is now on my list of top things I have ever eaten! Takoyaki consists of basically a fried dough ball around a delicious center of octopus, ginger, and green onion which can then be topped with a variety of choices ranging from egg salad to cheese to fish flakes. Nicole, the Anderson brothers, and I all got different kinds and shared in the deliciousness until we were all full and content.



After our delectable meal we began wandering around the mall as Yukari and Maggie showed us some of their favorite shops. We even came across a 100 yen shop where I picked up some more calligraphy brushes and some nice paper. Perhaps my favorite moment was finding mint ice cream in one of the stores and shivering as I ate it in defiance of the cold wind blowing through town. We also had the pleasure of coming across a candy store where our good friends showed us some of their favorite candy. I bought some very tart cotton candy that turned onto gum, fizzy soda sticks, a drinkable jelly, and a few other delicious odds and ends.

Outside the mall we wandered about the streets for a little while exploring the surrounding neighborhood. As we walked over one of the bridges spanning the streets below I stopped for a moment to watch the cars rolling by. I quickly realized that as far as traffic etiquette goes I had just wandered over to the other end of the spectrum. In america I figure we stand fairly middle ground, we're impatient, sometimes thoughtless, but in general we mostly follow the rules. In China it was a crazy deathtrap of aggressive (but attentive) driving, where right of way was only determined by how big and stubborn you were. However, here I was amazed by how polite everyone was. I never feel like my life is on the line crossing a road, and I certainly would never see someone driving blatantly down the wrong side of the road, or driving cops into fences. The cars just glide by paying careful attention to each other and graciously allowing right of way according to the rules of the road. It was quite fascinating. It's of course easy to see that this way of thinking is simply a part of the Japanese mindset. I have never met a more polite people. Oddly it's actually kind of unsettling sometimes, but I welcome the chance to experience it. At one point they took us up to the top of tone of the office building where we got to look out the window at a wonderful view of the city. We sat and entertained ourselves learning about all the different landmarks.
A short while later we all met up together to go to a small photo shop that Yakuri and Maggie insisted we had to try. The shop was full of various photo booths reminiscent of the little booths one would have seen frequently in the olden days, where a few coins or a couple bills would get you a small sheet of funny portrait souvenirs. These booths took it a step further however by providing complimentary free photo-shopping to "smooth out the rough edges" ;) and then an array of different backgrounds, stamps, and writing tools you could use to add a bit of "flair" to your photos before having them printed out. Perhaps the best part was trying to squeeze all 11 of us into the booth and laughing hysterically as we attempted to quickly rotate around in between pictures to try and make sure everyone was in at least one of them. I think the shopkeepers were quite entertained by our antics.

About half the group opted to head back on the bus up to our dear university after we were done harassing the photo booths, but I and a few others decided to save ourselves a few bucks and see a little more of the city by taking the hour long walk back up to our dorms from the mall. It was certainly worth the effort (despite my sore feet) to get to see the gorgeous Tsukuba University campus.
As we passed lakes, and gardens and trees, I couldn't help but feel a twinge of sadness that I would be spending only a short time in this beautiful place. I also enjoyed getting the chance to get to know some of my fellow travelers a little better. It seems I was the only one to come on this trip without previously knowing at least one person. It's good to know that I'll have a few more friends when I return home.





After getting back to our dorms we took a short break which consisted of me passing out briefly on my bed until 6:30 rolled around. Then we met up with everyone in the community center where we were welcomed by a large crowd of Japanese students who had cooked a delicious meal for us. I and several others had brought a few treats to share from home as well. As the little party began, they took a moment to welcome us and teach us a little but about meal etiquette in Japan, and with a loud chorus of Itadakimasu! we dug in.



The first item to fall onto my plate was a gracious serving of Japanese curry offered to me by the students. Although possessing a slightly different tang from the Thai curry I'm used to, it was equally delicious and easily made it onto my list of top foods. Any feast wouldn't be complete without a mouth-watering plate of sushi and sashimi to make your day. Although it was store-bought from the local supermarket, I dare say it rivaled even the restaurant made fare back home.
Perhaps the only thing I have found so far on this trip that I didn't like was what befell me next. Our dear lovely Maggie was so insistent that the smelly slime she was proffering to me at that moment was a necessary delicacy for me to try on a trip to Japan that I of course simply could not refuse. Natto she told me was a fermented soy bean paste that I was required to try "at least once" even standing within five feet of the smelly concoction was enough to let me know that I would not enjoy it one bit, but the adventurer in me, was insistent that I not get away with neglecting my duty to try everything I could. Chopsticks in hand I grabbed a small pinch of the goo and quickly put it in my mouth. Eyes-watering I choked it down, every bit as disgusted by the taste as I was by the smell. I laughed along with my new friends as they handed me my glass of coconut milk to wash it down. Another successful conquest :)

As the meal winded down I began wandering around chatting with all the different students. Their proficiency at English varied greatly, but for the most part we were able to at least cover the basics. One guy was excited when I mentioned that I snowboard which spurred on a conversation comparing the climate of Logan and him hometown in northern Japan. I found out that a couple girls were going to be in Logan this summer on an exchange and I quickly told them that they'd better look me up when they were in town. That conversation quickly caused me to track down Christa and ask her how I might get involved with helping out when they came over, she said she'd keep me in the loop ;)

As the evening wound down a few of us decided it was finally time to scrub off the grime of our travelling and decided to venture into the dorm bathhouse. Now that was an adventure. Here's how it went down. We walk into a small area where a guy at a table took our money (170 yen) and directed us to the women's area. Through the door we removed our shoes next to a small set of shelves and then entered a wood paneled room where we grabbed a plastic basket and chose a spot on another set of shelves where you strip down and leave your clothes behind. From there you enter a shower room. Along the walls are several shower heads, you pick one, shower off, and then if you so choose, go and soak in the hot pool and the other end of the room. I gotta say that as odd as it was, it was a great way to spend an evening after an exhausting day.

I headed back to my dorm soon after and climbed into bed, content and happy. It would be another long day in the morning and I couldn't wait for it to begin.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

In The Hills

Our second day in Beijing was a day filled with beauty and nature. Heading an hour out of the city center we began our journey at the expansive grounds of the Summer Palace. Here is where the Emperors and their family and servants would retire to when they wanted a summer respite from the confines of the Forbidden City Palace. I wish I could have had more time in Beijing so that we could have spent longer at the Summer Palace, but I think you could spend a couple days there and still not see all there is to see. Pagodas, temples, statues, courtyards, living quarters and a huge lake are scattered across the 2.9 square kilometers that make up the palace grounds.

Wandering through woods and grass and along dirt paths we were able to find countless numbers of these hidden treasures. It was like being in a storybook or a movie. It really was beautiful.



Nearing the lake from the north end we came to the long corridor; a wooden walkway stretching the length of that section of the lake. The ceiling was painted with countless murals each unique. We found a lot more people nearby the corridor than we had the wooded hills northward.


Dragon boats floated along the lake, taking passengers to various docks.

Walking along the edge we found the seventeen-arch-bridge. Made of marble and spanning the distance to a nearby island, it was a sight to be seen It was decorated with numerous Chinese lions each one unique from the rest.

We also came across a man playing with some toys that I recognized from home. I can't remember what they're called, but I had played with them before, and attempted to again.
I think my skills may have dwindled however haha ;)


Every building we found was so colorful and decorative. It really showed how much more open and relaxed the Summer Palace was.

It's a place to wander among the trees and feel a cool breeze. A place to sit and paint or write. To just enjoy life.

After leaving the Summer Palace we went trekking through the street looking for a bus stop to catch to our next destination. We got a little turned around and couldn't figure out where it was. We ended up standing there for a few minutes wondering what to do until we finally saw the bus we needed go by. We began following it, hoping that it would lead us to the stop. However, when we were still walking a few minutes later we realized that we probably should have gone the other way. However, we ended up being pretty content with our choice since we eventually did find a bus stop and along the way we got to see a lot of cool things.

It was kind of a run down area with people mulling around doing odd jobs. Children were playing in doorways, and each place we passed we got quick glances from the people inside. It was a different side than most tourists get to see.

After riding the bus for about half an hour we were dropped off a short walk from Xiangshan Park. One of the reasons I really wanted to see this place was because I heard it was one of the best places to see the fall red leaves. It was something I really missed about home. As we walked into the park it did not disappoint.

It was a sea of red, yellow and orange. As we walked along the trail, for the first time I almost felt at home. It was eerily similar to walking through the mountains back home and it brought a smile to my face to know that my two worlds could be connected by something so simple and beautiful.

One tip when it comes to names in China if the park has the word "Shan" in it you can count on there being a mountain to climb since Shan in fact means mountain. So I was expecting it when we came to a trail map that showed how far it was to the peak. From where we were to the top it was about a mile and we had to get back down as well. We needed to get back to our hostel by 6:30 to get our ride to an opera show we were going to so we only had about an hour and half left in the park. Nick, Kareena, and I looked at each other, smiled and knew that a challenge had been issued that must be taken. So we left the others to explore at the base of the mountain while we began our sprint for the top. Now normally walking two miles in an hour is easy to do, but you have to understand exactly what we were up against. Not only were we going up a mountain, we were going almost STRAIGHT up a mountain. It seems the Chinese have an affinity for stairs taller than they are. The majority of the hike was spent climbing as quickly as we could (and as quickly as we dared) up stairs that at some points I had to practically use my hands to get up.


Eventually Kareena and I had Nick go on ahead while he kept working our way upwards. We weren't sure if we'd have time to make it up before we had to begin heading down and we wanted him to at least make it. But don't worry, Kareena and I are a couple of stubborn headed girls who would not be denied. When we got to the point where we could see the top within reach, we just started scrambling as fast as we could. I startled a couple of Chinese coming down, with my monkey like climbing up those ridiculous stairs.

All our hard work paid off when we were standing on that precipice looking down over that sea of trees. Nothing has ever made me so happy as knowing that I had made it up that mountain.

At the top almost every tree and railing had red ribbons tied around them with names and messages from Chinese who had been up there.
It reminded me of the locks on all of the chains on Huangshan. I wish I had had time to put one of my own on but alas we had to get back down that mountain and time was ticking. Getting down was almost as hard as getting up. Especially since we were in a hurry.
I was basically clutching the cold metal railing with both hands as I ran/jumped down those same stupidly steep steps that I had just been clambering up, while Chinese yelled at me (probably to slow down and stop trying to get myself killed). It was kind of scary, but I think that made it even more fun for me. Kareena was behind me attempting not to roll her bad ankle.


Finally we made it back down to the relatively flat area and we had about 10 minutes left and a good half-mile to go. So the two of us put our heels to the wind and started running. With the steep stairs behind us we were really able to get some speed up. I'm pretty sure some of the people we passed must have thought we were a little cuckoo. It was the first time I had had a good run in a while and it felt so good! As we rounded the last corner and met back up with Nick and the others we were elated. We had made it!!


Basically we were the coolest people ever and we so knew it ;)

Leaving the park we attempted to get on a bus back to the metro, but for some reason the one we wanted to take wasn't working so we went sprinting down the road further to a different bus stop where we hopped on and immediately got stuck in a horrendous traffic jam. We hadn't accounted for something like that happening and it took far too long to get back to the metro. Then it still took us a good 40 minutes to get back to the hostel and by that time it was already after 7. We had missed our show but the hostel was really cool and said that we could go the next day instead, but they warned us if we didn't make it back this time they would only refund part of our money (although honestly I'm surprised they would refund us at all!)

With the show out of our minds we all immediately realized how hungry we were. A couple girls we met in the lobby told us to go next door where there was a restaurant with an English menu and really good fried rice. So we followed their advice and ate some super yummy food. Afterwards a few of us decided to go get some ice cream and began wandering down the street when we ran into some of our other teachers. About half of us were in my group who decided to do things on our own, while the other half had decided to do a three-day guided tour of Beijing instead. They told us of a cool street not to far away and so we followed them and explored around the city for awhile before ending up at a McDonalds where we got our delicious ice cream.

On the way back to the hostel an epic idea was formed. Earlier the previous day Ashley and I had both proven that we could piggy-back Nick and walk with him (we are the two shortest girls in the group). So we decided to have a piggy-back race!!! With Nick poised to jump on my back and Louis ready to hop on Ashley I was confident in my abilities to win. I had done this a million times and had no problems carrying around big guys. So Kelly ran ahead and counted us off.

Tragedy struck when, as soon as he hopped on, my legs crumpled beneath me. I hadn't exactly accounted for the physical feat I had accomplished earlier that day, and I hadn't realized just how tired my poor legs were. Laughing hysterically we reorganized and decided to try it a way that made more sense. With me and Ashley on the boys backs. Now I had complete faith in Nick. He was a solid , strong guy and should have no problems carrying me. So as Kelly counted off once again I knew we had it in the bag.

#3.....I was poised ready to jump on 2.....I crouched ready to spring up....3! I jumped on Nick's back, he took a step and suddenly I was falling head first toward the ground. I managed to tuck and roll rather than slam my head into the ground and ended up face down on the ground laughing so hard I couldn't breath. Nick jumped up quickly convinced he had killed me. As soon as he knew I was all right we were surrounded by people and all of us just sat and laughed for a good while until we could compose ourselves.

Due to extenuating circumstances we decided to reconvene the match when Nick and I were in a proper physical state to compete. Our beds were more comfortable than ever before that night.

Saturday, December 3, 2011

The Heart of China

As I sit at my computer to begin work on this post I can't even think how to start. I am made speechless by the countless memories that are wiggling through my mind. I spent four amazing days in the beautiful and awe-inspiring city of Beijing and I can't imagine ever being able to truly convey what I saw and felt and experienced while I was there. Hopefully I'll be able to do it some justice as I try to recreate that phenomenal weekend for you.

As with all vacations here in China it starts with a train ride. This particular train ride however, was....... unique :) The trip from Changzhou to Beijing is a good 10 hrs long. Now even in the softest of seats, I would not want to ride one of our normal trains all that way. So instead we opted to go a different way. Normally we would take either a G train (the fast ones) or a K/no letter train (the slow ones); this time we took a D train. We didn't know quite what to expect, but from what we were told it wasn't supposed to be seats like we were used to. So as we boarded the train we all had our fingers crossed that we'd be able to find some way to sleep that night.


As it turns out the arrangements were a whole lot better than we were expecting. We were split up into six person compartments that had four "beds". Technically I think there were two beds and two benches for seats, but they worked just as well as beds. Now most of you can probably do the math, but for those who may be a little impaired: six people + four beds = uh.........
Luckily, my compartment had all teachers in it (some others were sharing with strangers) so we could spread out however we liked. And as it may be, my compartment was lucky that I take up next to know space as I can sleep in any way on anything perfectly fine, and I am perfectly comfy sleeping curled into a tight ball. So we gave Nick (our resident tall man) his own bed, Katie got her own cause she has trouble sleeping, Rachelle and Kelly shared, and I curled up on one corner of a bed while Zack took the other side. It actually worked out quite perfectly.

Our train left around 10pm Wednesday night, so we were all already pretty tired when we got on the train. Somehow we managed to stay up for a couple hours anyways and goof off and chat. Zack and Katelin brought out a color code test book and like the young adults we are we got a kick out of it. Pretty soon we were all drifting off to lala land excited to wake up with a new place to explore.

As the sun rose the next morning so did my excitement. The train rolled into the station and before long we were on the subway speeding towards the center of the city where we would be staying at a hostel just a few minutes walk from Tiananmen square. One thing that was nice about the subway in Beijing was that it had a flat fare price unlike most cities that make you pay more the further you travel. We were thoroughly happy with this outcome since subway tends to be our preferred method of travel anywhere we visit.

As we exited the metro right at the southern end of the square, I was in awe. I don't know how to even describe that feeling to you. I had seen this place in books and pictures and on TV, I had read about it countless times, and dreamed about being here someday, and there I was. Little did I know that that moment, that incredible first moment, would almost pale in comparison to all the things I would see that weekend.

Our first order of business was to get rid of all our baggage at our hostel so we could travel the city unhindered. As it turned out, our hostel was more like a hotel than anything else. It didn't help that we had private rooms, so we had no strangers and no bunk beds, both of which I think I actually prefer to be honest. But, despite the bumpy nights sleep and the early hour, before long we were back out on the street wending our way back towards the heart of the city.

Tiananmen square was the perfect way to spend our first day in Beijing. Although still crowded with people, I imagine that us being there on a Thursday afternoon was a smart move. As we approached the square we noticed that it was entirely fenced off and guarded. We had to wander our way around the side until we came across one of the few entry points, where we had to go through a security screening before entering the actual square. You know what was the most strange about standing in that square and taking it all in? Thinking that a year ago, I would have never believed that I would be standing there at that moment.
At the southern end of the square you'll find the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong. Everyday in the morning you can go into the Mausoleum and see the supposedly preserved body of the dear Chairman. It was definitely on our agenda. As we approached the mausoleum however, we were informed that we actually had to leave the square and go drop our bags off at a storage area across the street before we could enter the building. In hindsight, we really should have just left the bags with half the group and then switched after the first people went through, but 1) we hadn't realized how expensive the storage was and 2) we didn't know how little time it took to get through the mausoleum (especially since it was Thursday so there were not nearly as many people). However, the thing about hindsight is that you only have after the event has occurred so alas we paid for the overpriced rental storage and got in line to enter the mausoleum.


As with just about everything in Beijing we had to first make our way through various checkpoints and security screenings before being allowed into the building. Along the way we passed several stalls where the Chinese were buying bouquets of white flowers, and for the first time the owners made no attempt whatsoever to sell them to us, in fact they hardly even looked at us. As you enter the first doors, you are greeted with shrine to the Chairman overseen by a large painting of the man himself. While the Chinese lay their flowers at his feet, we were ushered quickly by to the next room. There we followed a line of people through a small walkway with thick glass walls to one side where several guards stood before another set of glass walls inside of which was a glass sarcophagus encasing what is purported to be the body of the dear late Mao. As to the authenticity of that claim I cannot say. Admittedly the body may have appeared a little waxy to me, but after all who am I to say anything about the long-term methods of preserving a dead body?

After retrieving our belongings, we headed towards the other end of the square. At the center we passed by the Monument to the People's Heroes. Set there to pay tribute to all those who had died in defense of their country, it stands alone as a sentinel watching over the people from above. Marble bas-relieves pay homage to the lives lost in the wars that had ravaged the country.


Further north you come to two giant screens that continuously play a video depicting all of the greatest sights of China. We paused a moment to watch as images flickered by of winding rivers, jagged mountains, and terraced rice fields. I even saw a few things I had already been able to witness, such as West Lake in Hangzhou, and the Pudong skyline at night. It was an incredible feeling to get to take a moment and look back on all I had done and accomplished since I've been here. Moving on we saw the flagpole, surrounded by guards, on which waved the Chinese flag.

After exiting we crossed the street on the north end of square, and headed towards the entrance of the Forbidden city. Before we went in Katelin, Zack, and Madelynn decided to go find food first, but the rest of us opted to head into the city right away, so we could make sure and not miss anything.

I think the best way for me to continue in my description of this amazing place is simply to show you :) along with a few words to bring them to life of course ;)

In order to enter the city from the south end you must first go through the Tianan gate, the front of which is adorned with the famous picture of the Chairman. As we entered the gate we found ourselves in a large courtyard where various vendors hawked their wares.
Further in, past all the stalls you'll find yourself at the Meridian gate. I could barely contain my excitement and awe as we purchased our entrance tickets and made our way through the gate.




The first courtyard was very large, very open, and for the most part bare. Until you cross it and reach the next gate, the only thing adorning the view is the Golden Water river (whose waters are not so golden) and the five spectacular marble bridges that span the river, representing the five Confucian virtues.

After crossing the river and the rest of the courtyard you enter the Gate of Supreme Harmony. It's the first of the gate's of the Outer Court. Inside red pillars hold up an intricately designed roof, and you really start to feel the emptiness that pervades the different rooms and halls despite the bustling crowd.


Through the gate is the second courtyard, as open and wide as the first. It was actually super empty compared to most of the pictures I've seen before.

The gates themselves are marvelous to behold. Intricately designed with colorful murals, they are guarded by numerous statues of Lions that adorn the grand staircases one must climb to get there.
After the second courtyard we came to the Hall of Supreme Harmony. It's where the throne of the emperor sits. I've never seen anything so...... splendid. Sure it was obviously old and dirty and worn, but you could really get a sense of the grandeur that once adorned those halls.


The next area was one of my favorites. Behind the emperor's throne room was the empresses and then the gate leading to the inner court. The reason it was my favorite part was because of what surrounded the Empress's throne. To each side were huge marble staircases with several levels, all leading down to small courtyards. I think the reason I loved it so much was that I was able to take a moment and really get carried away in how incredible it was. For a few minutes I was lost in a vision, imagining this wondrous place back at the peak of its life. When everything was alive and bustling and great people walked the halls. I thought about the fates that were sealed here, the decisions that were made, the lives that were lived. Being bale to walk those stairs that Emperors, Princes, and Princesses once traversed; it's something I would have never gotten from a page in a book.
The inner court was much like the first, but on a much smaller scale. There were no huge marble staircases this time, no show to put on. This time there was color, and warmth, and closeness. I think this is where I would have chosen to spend my time if I had lived in this palace. Especially with what we got to see next.

Behind the palaces of the inner court is the Imperial Garden. Anyone who knows me should know how much I love anything to do with nature and the outdoors. Now I've seen a fair share of garden's since I've been here, but nothing like this one. There were countless beautiful flowers and huge rockeries that held up some of the coolest pagoda's I've seen. Part of me longed to be able to climb up to them to see the view from above.

I even got to see one of the things I miss most about home: green grass! It was definitely a sight for sore eyes. Although I admit it wasn't quite as nice as the grass back home, but grass is grass haha. Seeing some of the empty fall bushes made me almost wish I could have been there earlier in the year when they were full and beautiful.

Ashley and Dayna decided to wend their way through one of the many dry canals that lined the pathways. Walking through that garden kind of made me long for my own garden to play with, although I may never have one quite that splendid, I think I may have gotten a few ideas ;)

There are three main areas in the Forbidden city. If you go straight up the center, you are seeing the main palace, however to each side are the Eastern and Western Palaces. You have to pay a little extra to go in and see them, but we decided to pay the 10 yuan more to go into the Eastern Palace, mainly to see this:
The Nine Dragon screen. It's a beautiful painted marbles mural depicting nine Chinese dragons of various colors. There are two like it in Beijing, and we knew we had to see it.

After walking among the various halls of the Eastern Palace we began our journey back towards the entrance of the city. While crossing one courtyard we decided to do a little experiment during which we discovered......
That a 4'11" girl really can cradle a 6'5" male if she has the will (and the incredibly attractive strength ;D) to do it.

My time in the Forbidden City was so incredible. To see that much history and beauty that was so unlike anything I've ever seen before....... I'll never forget it.

After we left the city we headed back to Tiananmen Square where we met up with the others in our group. We were there to see the daily flag lowering at the north end of the square. However, since we had spent so much time in the city, by the time we got there a huge rowd had already gathered and I,being of short stature, could not really see anything. I was able to watch some of it through the screen on the back of some guys camera, but I imagine it was quite lacking. It was fun to see though and I'm glad we made the stop.

By this time it was getting towards dinner time and most of us had not eaten anything since breakfast that morning. So we headed in the direction of a street I had heard about that was supposed to have good street food. Wanfujing road turned out to be very similar to Nanjing rd in Shanghai. Tall buildings, malls, and fancy name brand stores lined the street. This was also where we (surprisingly) seemed to see the most people we had up to that point. At the end of the pedestrian section we saw a huge line of stalls that, from a distance, looked just like our dear night market back home.

It didn't take long to realize that this particular market was VERY different from any we had seen before. Not only did it have an appearance of cleanliness and order (which actually is a bad sign when it comes to finding the good food) but the food selection available was somewhat pricey and somewhat...... well crazy! Walking along the stall we saw eel, shark, snake, tongue, beetles, sheep penis, larva, sea urchin, and......
STARFISH!!!!

Which was my selection of food to try. If I had had more money on me at the time (I had left most of it back in the hostel, thinking I wouldn't need it) I probably would have tried more. The starfish was kind of weird. It didn't taste bad, but it was grainy and made me think of chewing on sand, which actually makes sense if you think about it :)

After getting a taste of some of the "local cuisine" we decided to get something more filling in our bellies and went to Pizza Hut. After we were full and satisfied our exhaustion from the train and the long day kicked in so we headed back to the hostel and crashed for the night.......